Yarn types

Synthetic Wool

This type of wool is the cheapest. It is mostly made of acrylic, polyacrylic, nylon, polyester, or artificial silk. This wool is well suited for decor, accessories, or similar items—anything you use or look at, but less for wearing. However, not everyone likes this fabric on their skin, as it is made of plastic. Therefore, I recommend this yarn more for things that are not worn against the skin or in places that are not sensitive.

Pros: inexpensive, dimensionally stable, colorful, water-repellent, flame-retardant, tear-resistant, can be washed in the washing machine

Cons: washable at max. 30°C, skin compatibility

Wool with a High Proportion of Natural Fibers

This type of wool contains a high proportion of cotton, virgin wool, mohair, angora, etc. It is very easy to work with and has a flexible shape, so garments do not appear stiff. Wool from natural fibers usually feels very nice and supple against the skin.

Pros: breathable, warming in winter and cooling in summer, absorbs less sweat odor, lightweight

Cons: low stability and durability, tasty for moths, possibly scratchy with virgin wool

Garments made from natural yarns should be aired out rather than washed. So, put them out on the balcony or terrace overnight, and by the next morning, you should have a fresh garment again.

In case of stains, please wash by hand only and very carefully at a maximum of 30°C. A special wool detergent should be used; do not wring, rub, or scrub. Soak for a few minutes with the detergent and rinse quickly. The rinse water should have the same temperature.

Gently squeeze out the moisture with a towel.

Let garments dry flat indoors, preferably on a large towel. Never hang them up.

Protect from moths during storage.

Blended Wool

This type of wool contains both synthetic and natural fibers. The properties are combined in such a way that the advantages of both sides can be utilized. Thus, a blended yarn can feel soft yet still be stable and water-repellent. Blended wool usually offers a good price-performance ratio if you want to create beautiful and durable items.

Is there a special yarn for knitting or for crocheting?

Manufacturers often distinguish between knitting and crochet yarn and name them accordingly. You can use any yarn for handicrafts; it makes no difference at all.

If I want to crochet/knit socks, do I have to use special sock yarn, or can I use normal yarn?

You don't have to buy the special yarn; of course, you can make socks with any other yarn. Thick or fluffy yarn is especially great for the cold season, as you can create very beautiful and warm socks with it.

You should use special sock yarn if you plan to wear the socks normally in shoes. Sock yarn is stable and does not wear through as quickly. Typical sock yarn contains 75% virgin wool and 25% polyacrylic. If you find cheaper yarn that has the same fiber content, you can, of course, use it as sock yarn as well.

Alpaca

Alpaca wool comes from the alpaca camel in the Andes. The wool is said to be 5 times warmer than virgin wool and is suitable for people with allergies, as it contains no lanolin. Alpaca is said to feel even softer than merino wool and not pill. Almost anything can be made from this yarn.

Angora

Angora wool comes from the Angora rabbit and is one of the softest types of wool. These rabbits are rarely bred, so the wool is usually much more expensive than regular yarn. This wool is very light, easy to work with, but sheds a lot. Many contact lens wearers or people with allergies have problems when wearing and working with garments made from this wool. Angora wool should not be brushed; the hairs will stand up on their own from body heat, or you can put the garment in a plastic bag beforehand and shake it. Please avoid direct sunlight.

Cotton

Most of you will know this plant-based yarn. It is industrially produced, very durable, and especially suitable for potholders. Cotton is very absorbent and can absorb both water and oil and release them again. It has a low allergy potential and is heat-resistant. It can be washed in the washing machine at high temperatures (boil-proof). Cotton cannot be felted. The yarn is mostly used for garments for the warmer seasons.

Cashmere

A high-quality and comfortable yarn obtained from the Cashmere goat. It is combed from the undercoat and is very soft and fine. Since this yarn is very expensive, it is often offered as a blended yarn. The yarn can be brushed after processing.

Lambswool

Also called yearling wool or first-growth wool. This is virgin wool, but from sheep no older than 12 months. The wool is still fine and delicate, as it is not yet rounded. This yarn is used for slightly more elegant handicrafts.

Merino

This wool comes from the Merino sheep and is one of the finest types of sheep's wool. The fabric is very dense and is said to be able to store 3 times more moisture compared to virgin wool. Merino wool scratches significantly less on the skin and even warms when wet. It is odor-neutral, even after being worn multiple times.

Mohair

This yarn is obtained from the Angora goat. It is considered the lightest yarn. Mohair is divided into age grades, depending on the age of the goat when it was shorn. For example, there is Kid Mohair, Young Goat Mohair, and Adult Mohair. Kid is the youngest yarn and thus the finest. Mohair handicrafts can be brushed. If small knots form, they should be carefully brushed out.

Virgin Wool

Many will also know this wool, as it is very common and has good properties. Virgin wool comes from a living "normal" sheep. It is dirt-repellent, so dirt only adheres to the surface, and it is odor-neutral, meaning it does not absorb sweat odor. You can remove dirt by shaking and airing it out. For heavier soiling, follow the cleaning instructions for natural yarns (see above). The yarn has a warming effect in winter and a cooling effect in summer, as it can absorb, store, and release moisture. Virgin wool is wrinkle-resistant because it is elastic. Unprocessed, the wool usually feels scratchy.

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Yarn Weights

1. Lace (Lace-Weight, Laceweight)
   • English Terms: Lace, Cobweb, 1-Ply
   • Recommended Needle Size (mm): 1.5 - 2.25 mm
   • German Equivalent: Often very fine yarns that do not always have their own category in Germany. Often referred to as 1- or 2-ply.
   • Projects: Delicate shawls, scarves, lace.
2. Fingering (Fingering-Weight)
3. • English Terms: Fingering, Sock, Baby, 4-Ply
   • Recommended Needle Size (mm): 2.25 - 3.25 mm
   • German Equivalent: 4-ply.
   • Projects: Socks, fine sweaters, baby clothes, shawls.
4. Sport (Sport-Weight)
   • English Terms: Sport, Baby, 5-Ply
   • Recommended Needle Size (mm): 3.25 - 3.75 mm
   • German Equivalent: 5-ply.
   • Projects: Lighter sweaters, hats, scarves.
5. DK (Double Knitting)
   • English Terms: DK, Light Worsted, 8-Ply
   • Recommended Needle Size (mm): 3.75 - 4.5 mm
   • German Equivalent: 8-ply.
   • Projects: All-purpose yarn for sweaters, cardigans, blankets, hats. A very popular category.
6. Worsted (Worsted-Weight)
   • English Terms: Worsted, Aran, Afghan, 10-Ply
   • Recommended Needle Size (mm): 4.5 - 5.5 mm
   • German Equivalent: 10-ply or simply as "medium-weight" yarn.
   • Projects: Warm sweaters, blankets, scarves, accessories. Worsted is the American counterpart to Aran, which is often a bit thicker.
7. Bulky (Bulky-Weight)
   • English Terms: Bulky, Chunky, 12-Ply
   • Recommended Needle Size (mm): 5.5 - 8 mm
   • German Equivalent: 12-ply or as "thick" yarn.
   • Projects: Quick-knit hats, thick scarves, warm sweaters.
8. Super Bulky (Super Bulky-Weight)
   • English Terms: Super Bulky, Super Chunky, Roving
   • Recommended Needle Size (mm): 8 mm or larger
   • German Equivalent: Very thick yarn, often for arm knitting projects.
   • Projects: Chunky blankets, very thick hats, pillows.